Dateline Venzia IV: Upadated News Here and Now!

Loyal readers know that Nancy and I were in Venezia when the ban on feeding pigeons went into effect May 1, 2008. I was skeptical. The ban was met with a Pigeon Feed Dealer protest (reported real-time on this blog) and disappointed thousands of small children and Asian tourists, the former who liked to run among the birds scattering them and the latter who liked to pose with Columbia livia perched on their heads. How could the government not cave into pressure that was bound to build?


Well, here's the latest from ANSA, an Italian news service:

The city has also launched a drive to rid St Mark's of the pigeons many people associate with it by banning feed vendors and taking other moves to shoo the birds away, in the face of protests from animal rights groups. Codella said Wednesday the square's pigeon population was down from its historic levels of 20,000 to a bare thousand. ''Just a few months after the feed ban most of the square is free of the animals who have moved off to find food on the islands,'' she said. She said they had ''almost completely disappeared'' from the logge on Palazzo Ducale (the Doge's Palace), once their favourite gathering spot.

It's hard to imagine St. Mark's free of pigeons. But, the real news is that the city hasn't quit at pigeons. St. Mark's was also full of trash (a lot in the form of McDonalds and Burger King leavings, dropped by tourists who sat on the steps and picniced. Aside: can you imagine passing up a panini for a quarter-pounder? Well. here's more from ANSA:

Venice woke up Wednesday to find a pretty corner of St Mark's Square free of food wrappers, litter and the signs of people sleeping rough. The city council, which has launched a 'decorum' drive, took the unusual step of chaining off the Piazzetta dei Leoncini to keep takeaway fans and tramps away. ''For the first time in years one of the most beautiful places in the city isn't full of trash,'' said city decorum pointman Augusto Salvadori. Venice Artistic Superintendent Renata Codello said authorities wanted to ''see the results of shutting off the piazzetta and decide whether less drastic measures might also work''. Venice launched its decorum drive two years ago to fight a modern wave of scruffiness and lax behaviour it said was dragging its image down. Among other things it has employed so-called 'City Angels', a band of young women, to tell tourists to put their shirts back on, stop putting their feet in fountains and have their picnics away from the most popular sites.

A, Venezia, what will be next in your efforts to return to La Sernenissima, ban cruise ships? One can only hope...

Revisiting Venezia II: Nancy and the Movie

I was recording the sound of the bells at the Santa Maria dei Carmini--the one just down the canal from our apartment. I set my Nikon Coolpix on the window sill and let her roll. A number of people were caught in the images as the bells rang out and they walked or gondola-ed by. One was Nancy, captured in this footage as she realizes the camera is rolling, ducks to get our of the way, attracts the attention of passers-by as she duck-walks under the window, and then goes back, pulled in by flowers floating down the canal, jetsam from the Campo San Barnaba produce boat...

Revisiting Venezia: Recently Uncovered Footage

With all the news of Sarah Palin--no comment on the thoroughness of Senator McVain--I decided to go back and look at footage I shot in Venezia with my little Nikon CoolPix.

Here's an Afternoon on the #1 Vaporetto

Godless Communism? Not in Italy!

I remember the 1950s and early 1960s. I was a kid and I was afraid the Soviets were going to nuke us into oblivion and the Cleveland Indians would never win the World Series again. Or maybe the Ruskies would invade the country and force their way of life on us--making us eat beets, play soccer, and become Godless Communists, like them and everyone else who believed in that doctrine.

Fifty-some years later, I'm still alive, no thanks to Duck 'n Cover. The Indians still haven't won the World Series. I like beets, but not soccer. And based on this shrine, proudly placed on the outside wall of the Communist Party in Venezia, I guess Communism isn't Godless, at least in Italy.

Gelato a Venezia

Gelato in Venezia is everywhere! It's light, it's delicious, and it comes in one flavor--at least as far as I'm concerned. Why eat anything other than stracciatella, that creamy white vanilla gelato laced with thick chocolate shavings?

Nancy is far more of an omnivore when it comes to gelato flavors, and I have to admit, she picked some tasty ones like pistachio, Crema del Doge, terramisou, chocolatta, and coffee flavors. But, when it came time to put scoop to cone, I was as boring as boring could be. But oh my, that stracciatella! See it on the left, there?

Different gelato dealers pile their wares in characteristically shaped mounds with decorative swirls. Of course, the more popular dealers work their way through those mounds quickly, so one tries to avoid full trays of gelato that look a little melty--they've been there for a while and maybe the dealer's product isn't so good.

Gelato prices vary with location in Venezia and the map to the left gives the approximate isolines of prices. Within the red, the treat generally costs more than € 2.50 or € 3.00. Between the red and yellow, the price drops to € 1 to € 1.50 per scoop, but many stands impose a 2 scoop minimum. Outside the yellow you can happily enjoy 1 scoop in a cone for € 1. "Per favore, uno palina di stracciatella. Grazie!"

A tip: Il Pinguino on the Riva degli Schiavoni near the bridge to the Arsenale offers the € 1.50 per scoop (1 scoop OK) price within the red zone, and the stracciatella is great! Can't say about the other flavors...

Pavimenti d'Italia

I started taking pictures of floors in Italian churches when we visited in 2006. I continued on this trip, expanding my domain to include floors not in churches, although most of the pictures are still of marble and mosaics on which parishioners have walked, knelt, and crawled as they sought to have sins wiped from their souls. I guess by now, some of these floors have seen far more tourist feet than feet of the pious, but feet of sinners still.

This mosaic is in the Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato on Murano in the Venetian Lagoon. The Byzantine church dates from either the 7th or the 10th Century, depending on the story you read. I believe this floor was laid in the 12th Century.






In Venezia, the floors are pretty standard with alternating blocks of red and white Italian marble--not too surprising I guess. It's pretty and it wears well. Timeless. Stands up to water and harsh treatment. Doesn't show the dirt. Environmentally sound I guess as it lasts thousands of years unless you decide you need to makeover your church to keep up with the latest fad. The flooring specialists did add various sorts of inlays to break up the large expanses and provide some individuality.





I particularly like to take low oblique angle shots of floors and capture sun flecks and shadows that are cast on the marble and mosaic.

Primavera al del lago di Como

The predicted rain clouds seem to have broken here in Portland today and the sun is now shining on our spring flowers and shrubs (and on the grass, causing it to grow, grrr) and it reminds me of the beautiful garden at Villa Melzi in Bellagio. It was a great day to be at Lake Como--the azaleas were in full bloom, the trees were leafing out, and it was warm and sunny. For more pictures of the garden, visit my Villa Melzi album...you'll see that our yard, and yours too, most likely, are very similar.

Meanwhile, back to Italia...

After leaving Venice, we drove over through the Italian Alps to on our way to Bellagio. There was still a lot of snow, skiers were skiing, and the terraced hillsides were spectacular.



It was a beautiful day and we followed the winding roads to the Val di Sole, and then wound through tunnels to Varenna where we boarded the ferry.





We spent the night at a great little hotel, Albergo Silvio, where I had the specialty of the house, the salted sardines, caught, dried, and salted by the hotel owner.














The next day, after a visit to a beautiful garden just below our hotel, we went for our long-awaited visit with George Clooney at his Villa Oleandra in Laglio. But a mix-up apparently. He wasn't there, even though Nancy said he was expecting us. Next time, I guess...

Masonry of Venezia II

I've started working through photos so here is the first of my photo series

Venezia is a city of masonry, from the paving stones, to the walls of everything, to the marble floors, to the steps of the thousand bridges, to the railings of the Rialto bridge, polished smooth by the hands of tourists.

In the US, where almost all construction occurred after the fall of the Venetian Republic--La Serenissima--we sometimes think of eroding masonry, but walking in Venezia provides a new look at wear and tear, but also at the incredible durability of baked clay and stone. Comparable construction in the US? Cliff dwellings and pueblos, I guess

Dateline Venezia III: More Pigeon News

Animal rights activists joined with tourists and children to break the ban and feed pigeons illegally at St. Mark's. More about it here.

And here

Leaving Venezia

Saturday morning, the day we leave Venezia and begin the trip home to Portland. It seems strange to be leaving after all the planning and anticipation--if I remember correctly we started 8 months ago. I've spent enough time here that I begin to appreciate what it might be like to be a Venetian, but I guess I'll never really know. I suspect it's difficult to live in a place that seems so personal with its tiny calli that wind across the islands, yet is so astounding in its art, history, and beauty that it must be shared with the millions who come to visit. To see streets cleaned daily, only to need cleaning again tomorrow. To watch the accidental (for the most part these days) jetsam and flotsam float out to wherever it floats to on the tide. To endure the traffic that clogs streets as you try to make your way from work to home, or to the store, on Friday afternoon or Saturday morning. To awake on Saturday, or any morning, to the sound of luggage on wheels passing one's bedroom window, as I just heard. The changing of the transient population begins anew, and today, as two weeks ago on Fondamenta Gherardini, we are part of the change.

In Venezia XV

Adventures on the Canal Grande! We planned to hop the #1 at Ca' Rezzonico bound for San Marcuola and the eastern side of the island. I was a bit suspicious when the vaporetto hit the dock with enough energy to stagger a few old folks waiting with us. Now, it's not unusual for the operator (pictured to the left) to dock by the touch method, but this was more like an aircraft carrier landing--a controlled crash. Oh well. On we got. Next stop and it's slam-bam, look out on shore. Back in the canal, the operator seemed to go very slowly and he tooted his horn a lot--a first that we've heard except when we almost ran over a gondola that ventured in front of us the other day. There also seemed to be an observer in the wheelhouse.

By the time we passed under the Rialto bridge (I noticed stalactites--see left) and headed (and I mean headed) for the Rialto-Mercato stop it was clear that even regular riders of the vaporetti were paying attention to what was going on. We hit the Rialto dock with just less than enough kinetic energy turned to heat to weld the #1 to the dock! At each stop the rope man--the person who ropes the mooring cleat--had to throw the hemp further and further. As we approached our stop, a water taxi was at our 2 o'clock and was clearly impairing our skipper's approach angle. He tooted the horn, which prompted a Venitian Stink Eye from the taxi man. If that taxi man knew what we knew, he would have hit the jets before he became part of a vaporetto stop. Instead, our driver started his approach too late, the rope wasn't long enough and he over shot. While backing up he ended up with the nose of the ship about 30 degrees into the canal from the dock. With the mooring rope on the cleat, he gunned the engine to bring us to shore against the tension of the rope and we hit with a resounding clang, staggering everyone on board including the rope man. As I left, I asked Rope Man, "Studente?". "Si," he replied with a smile and a shake of his head...I walked off the dock thinking of the the new bus driver I had recently who made a K-turn on Broadway and about the first time I ever drove in New York City. We all have to learn somewhere.

Dateline Venezia II: News When You Need It!

For more thorough news coverage (fair and balanced, well at least balanced by the look of the pigeons...), look here

I like this photo of the birds lined up like the vendors.

Photo copyright ANSA.it

In Venezia XIV

We started the day with a trip up the Canal Grande to admire the various palazzi. Constant bearing! Decreasing range! That means you are getting closer to another ship and on a collision course. My friend Bob Kohut used to regale our field crew with tales of life on an aircraft career during long drives to Michigan City, Indiana. Life on the water in Venezia is Constant bearing! Decreasing range! Come to think of it, life on the streets is Constant bearing! Decreasing range! In both cases, contact is rarely made.

On the water, engines reverse, oars are stroked, rudders are turned. In the calli, at the last moment, a shoulder is turned, a step is shortened, or it's increased. For all the people, there is little contact. Except on the vaporetto where people cram against people, no one wanting to wait a few minutes for the next boat.

The story of the ban on pigeon feeding continued today. The vendors once again lined their carts up near the entrance to San Marco piazza.

Civil disobedience was breaking out. People were sitting and eating where sitting and eating were forbidden. They were feeding pigeons bread. Some vendors turned a blind eye while tourists took grain from their carts. A few vendors let pigeons into their grain bins or scattered an odd handful of seed. None would accept money for the grain. Petitions were passed and signed. Police passed through the piazza and waved their hands at a few people feeding the ravenous and disoriented birds--birds who were assuming their usual poses, only to find empty tourist hands--but not bothering people who were sitting and eating in clear violation of the signs posted on trash cans.





Nancy and I spoke with M. (initials only to protect the innocent) and S. and told them what we'd read in the world press. Word among the vendors is that the "Animal Rights" people will be on the scene tomorrow to lend solidarity as they are concerned about the fate of pigeons forced to fend for themselves, left only to food tossed from Florian's where coffee is € 6 and a crumb is the primi piatti, or the bags from McDonald's and Burger King that overflow the trash.

Then we were off to the Armenian Monastery on San Lazzaro. It's quite the place and I learned a lot about the church and the collection of items and art that they have, but not much about being an Armenian monk on San Lazzaro. In fact, I'm not sure there is more than one monk there. However, the church is quite beautiful and, unlike many churches in Venezia where one is not permitted to take pictures, I could snap at will in this one.

A day spent riding boats provided a completely different perspective of the city--and my feet are happier for it.

Dateline Venezia: News When You Need It!

Updated 1 May, 10 AM CEDT The latest here from MSNBC


Venezia. April 30, 2008(F&L). According to all reports (or at least the one we read during cocktail hour) the authorities are serious about the ban on pigeon feeding in St. Mark's. However, the ban is not pigeon feed--it also bans picnics and men with bare chests (mostly Germans I think). We have observed an increased police presence near St. Mark's and we were hoping it was not a repeat of our experience in Dubrovnik two years ago when a certain Darth Cheney came to call. Instead, it's war against pigeon feeders, people having picnics, and bare chested German men.

In Venezia XIII

Big plans for the day--Let's take the boat to Isola San Servolo where we've seen they have an interesting new museum about the hospital for the insane that was there for a couple centuries. Then we can hang out around the Venice International University (also on San Servolo), have a picnic lunch, some coffee, and kill a couple hours before the Gregorian Chant Vespers at 5:25 PM.

On our way to the Vaporetto ticket stand, we came across a picket line of pigeon feed vendors with signs protesting that apparently, the Mayor had banned them from St. Mark's as of today. We haven't translated all the signs yet, but the emotions ran from "You are taking away our jobs" to "The children will be disappointed" to "The pigeons will starve". Found some more details.



We bought our 72 hour Vaporetto tickets--our last three days here will be spent using the water buses to explore and observe, culminating with our departure just before they expire on Saturday.Then we hopped on the #20 to San Servolo. It's one of the smaller lagoon boats as opposed to the big mega-tubs that haul hundreds of people up and down the Canal Grande and over to Lido.


Disembarking at San Servolo, we encountered a more-or-less deserted island. It was lunch time so the university offices were closed, but there were no students in sight. We found the entrance to the museum and spent a good 5 minutes reading the 4 displays. It turns out you have to arrange a tour of the museum and it's just being developed so maybe there isn't so much to see anyway.


I was able to add to my "Floors of Venezia" series (although not technically Venezia) and also start a new series, "Blue Glass Bamboo of the Venetian Lagoon..."

We ate our sandwich and then decided to continue on to Lido and see what was cracking over there. However, the boat from San Servolo to Lido only goes at midnight, so it was back to Venezia, then board a #1 and head across the lagoon. Shortly, we arrived in Lido. We walked around there for a time, looked at some beaches and the Adriatic. The beach was pretty junky and it turns out all beaches are private except for the tiny over-used chunk we were on.



Back on the #1 to Venezia. Plans for vespers put to sleep and replaced with a plan to take an aperitif at our local campo and then, after we dine, a trip down the Canal Grande with our newly acquired keys to the waterways and a book showing the palazzi of the canale. Likely more to be added later...

In Venezia XII.V

Late edition News Flash by Nancy, film at 11 by John.

Went out into the Venetian night. Reflections. Footsteps. Faster walking. No tourists taking photos. Except John. Designer stores: Fendi, Prada, La Coupole, Ferragamo, Dolce et Gabbana, Chanel, Gucci, Versace. I forget the rest. Into the Piazza. Fewer pigeons and no purveyors of pigeon food. Music at Florian's (Viennese waltz, tarantella) and Lavena (New York, New York) so dancing--waltz, polka, Rockettes in the spotlights. The gold and blue mosaics on the basilica facade still shimmery.

Fortuny lampshade reproduction at 300 € a pop are exhibit #1.








Murano glasses and cups at who knows how much each are exhibit #2.


Exhibit #3, a freaking handbag, 2,200 €? Puh-leez.

In Venezia XII

Nancy and I decided to compose together today so here is a joint blog posting. John: A showery day in Venezia changes the pace of the city completely. The tourists never make it past the €1.50 gelato una palina contour line. The Zattere is deserted, the fair-weather food establishments retreating to tiny awnings and the tourists nowhere to be seen. The few intrepid souls at this distance from St. Mark's seem to be British--the foul weather runs off their backs out of habit. Closer in, the Japanese tourists are still game for gondola rides (most other gondoliers that we've seen the past several days are M. I. A.). Within pigeon-feed distance of the duomo, one starts to pick up the Americans. I think the Germans are drinking beer somewhere.

A lazy day for me, Nancy that is. I did walk nearly three miles which can seen like tons back home and is a simple jaunt in this car-free wonderland. In addition to that minimal walk to a bookstore to see if there are any English books worth buying for the trip home, my day has been mostly about reading 24 -- count 'em -- canti of the Inferno section of Dante's Divine Comedy. Warning: the sentence ahead is complex. So I've been immersed in reading about the company George W. "There are no longer words sufficient to describe his crimes" Bush and Darth "Already-Dead" Cheney will be keeping when they are no longer kind of sort of not really "running" things and have been somehow, even if it's only on a cosmic level, prosecuted for their crimes and sentenced to a ring of hell. Snakes, sinners, those who lust, steal, and soothsay. Usury, graft, thievery and lying. Devils who smite you with a glance and turn you from a hellhound wraith into ash. That sort of thing. Charming, don't you think?

What else?

I, like John, did see Japanese tourists today on obligatory gondola tours, but WITH an accordionist in one of the requisite three boats.

It's dusk now and we've just finished our delicious and savory and maybe even low-calorie Tuesday night supper. We're contemplating a passegiatta -- evening walk -- (John calls them passegelatos) down the street to Calle Avogardia and out to the deserted Zattere. Or maybe we'll stick inland tonight, head for one of the many deserted gelateria and the rabbit-warren streets and alleys that make up this quieter Venice sixth. In the meantime, watching the day fade, the heads of passersby as they bob along under the crest of our living room windows is entertainment enough. Bellissimo!


John again: The fair weather format extends to St. Mark's where after I think, nine days in a row, the intrepid fiddler has a day off. Tables are propped to shed water and chairs will await the waiters' towels before tourist seats are seated again.










A high point was roaming home from St. Mark's down the San Polo side of the canal and running into a spice shop I hadn't seen before (read that I didn't really know where I was) where they had photogenic piles of spices and seeds in the window. The unfortunate thing is that I have no idea where it was so will not make it back there except by mistake.